Thoughts on Alpine Running Vest Packs

     The last few years as I've moved into full time guiding and longer alpine and winter routes I've learned towards using a running vest in place of a small multi-pitch pack. A big reason for this shift personally is due to water accessibility and low profile fit that makes chimney-ing or general movement on the climb feel like I am climbing without a pack. Many companies are now making packs that are alpine running vest hybrids but I wanted a simpler more slimmed down version v.s what we were seeing. Below I have two iterations of the concept and what worked and what hasn't.

ALPINE VEST 1.0

Material- 1.0 oz dyneema, osprey running vest for carry system, crampon/axe carry system, Velcro roll top, 20L capacity, thermarest pad for rigidity, 14.5 oz empty

    My good friend Lene made this pack for me and overall as a first design it has done its job. Initially when the materials arrived we decided to double up the dyneema due to the thinness of it. The stretch pockets below the armpit were a huge plus too a great spot for the inreach and snacks. A thicker dyneema composite material was used for the bottom and eventually below the back due to being high friction points. I've now taken this climb on 4-5 ice climbs ranging WI3-4+ and it has carried incredibly well although it does feel very fragile. I don't think this pack performs as well at long alpine ice routes and will be better suited for summer mountaineering or fast and light soloing. Carrying over 20ish pounds pulls on the shoulder straps pretty hard especially once a rope is hanging on the back.

Here are some more pictures of the pack in use. Overall a solid first try that ticked most of the boxes I was looking for 

PROS-

• Light weight
• Carries low profile
• water and snacks very accessible
• easy closure system

CONS-

• Not durable enough for alpine climbing
• crampon attachment could be simplified, takes long to transition 
• can't carry over 20ish-lbs

ALPINE VEST 2.0 

Materials- 30L capacity, 150-denier DCH fabric, 16.1oz empty, Patagonia running vest carry system, Top closure, bungee axe and crampon attachment, 

    This version is recently built and untested. I believe the stronger material will hold up better and the quicker transitions based off the simple tool/crampon carry system will make this version excel in alpine ice environments. The vest can hold 2 .5L bottles and has a snack pocket on each side. The top closure and clip in point will make it easy to clip to an anchor too during belays, with the top closure it will also be easier to access belay puffy. I will also be adding a zipper on the back panel of the bag to make easy access.

    I believe we will continue to see more of these packs flooding the market the next few years as gear continues to get lighter. For this concept to excel in an alpine/mountain environment simplicity will be key. we are seeing many packs full of bells and whistles but a light pack is for slimmed down missions, must be simple to use and be minimal to fit the style of climbing it is designed for.